Evening Diamonds

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Copyright Marnie MacLean 2003

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Who ever said that cotton was just for casual clothing? The beautiful subtle variegations in Papyrus make the piece look like a watercolor painting, which is really only where the glamour begins. I really love the way lace looks worked in this yarn. The stitches are clear and distinct, and the ribbon glides effortlessly over the needles, making it delightfully quick to finish. Paired with beads along the hem and at the end of the ties, you'll be catching the eyes of admirers, coming and going.

Gauge

21 stitches by 30 rows = 4"

Materials

#8 circular needles
4 skeins of Papyrus in color of choice
4 stitch markers
Stitch holders or scrap yarn
Less than 1 skein of cotton crochet thread in size 10
Size 7 steel crochet hook
Assortment of metal and glass beads (Available through local craft store)
1/4" waistband elastic, or .5mm elastic line if desired

Yarn Substitution

Papyrus is a 100% cotton ribbon yarn. Any worsted weight yarn should work, though the fabric may have a slightly different hand.

Stitches Used

Knit:

Stockinette Stitch (STst)
1x1 Ribbing
Yarn Over (YO)
Slip (sl)
Knit two together (k2tog)
Decrease (dec)
Increase (in)

Crochet:

Slip Stitch (sl st)
Single Crochet (sc)
Double Crochet (dc)
Chain (ch)

Lace Diamonds Pattern

worked as follows

Main Body:

Size written for women's size small (Medium and Large in parenthesis)

CO 174 (186, 210) on size #8 knitting needles

Place stitch marker between first and last stitch and one after 87th (93rd, 105th) stitch to mark side seams.

At center front, use stitch markers to indicate the 17 centermost stitches, where the diamond pattern will be worked. Lace is worked from the first row, up the entire front of the piece until noted.

Work even for 2 rows

Decrease before and after each side seam stitch-marker next row and then every 6th (14th, 14th) row 4 (2, 2) times.

Work even for 10 (8, 4) rows

Inc one st before and after each side seam stitch-marker next row and then every 6th (6th, 8th) row, 7 (7, 6) times.

Work even for 14 rows

Place back stitches onto a stitch-holder or scrap yarn. You will now be working only the front, and will knit back and forth instead of circularly. Remove side seam stitch-markers but keep markers for lace.

BO 7 (7, 8) stitches at beginning of next 2 rows

Armhole shaping:

Begin armhole decreases noting that neck will be started at row 36 (38, 40) *Dec 1 st at each armhole end of every 3rd row 18 (16, 12) times

Then dec 1 st at each end of every 2nd row 4 (9, 16) times*

Work from * to * for a total of 36 (38, 40) rows (With 58 (65, 71) stitches remaining) and then begin neck shaping at SAME TIME

Neckline:

Work 21 (24, 26) st, move 16 (17, 19) stitches to stitch-holder, work remaining 21 (24, 26) st with second ball of yarn.

While continuing armhole shaping, Dec 1 st on neckline side every row 8 (9, 9) times, until 10 (12, 12) st remain. Continue working armhole dec until 2 st remain.

Ribbing:

With right side facing PU and knit 68 (72, 75) st from left armhole, all st from back, and 68 (72, 75 st from right armhole.

Along armholes dec from 68 (72, 75) to 48 (52, 53) st , working back straight.

Work 2 rows of K1, P1 ribbing

With crochet thread sc in each st around, working 3 sc at the two top neckline points.

Bottom Lace:

Using crochet thread, string about 30 beads onto thread. You probably won't need them all but it's harder to add beads than it is to have some you don't use.

Row 1: 2 sc in each st, sl st in first sc.

Row 2: Ch5, sk 2 sc, *dc in next sc, ch2, sk 2 sc* around. Sl st into 3 ch of original ch5.

Row 3: Ch4, *dc into next sp, ch2, slide first bead down and sc on the other side of it to secure, ch2, dc in next sp, ch2, dc in next sp, ch 5, sl in 3rd ch from hook, ch2, dc in next sp, ch2* repeat from * around, closing with sl st in 3rd ch of original ch5.